Seawolf — Father and Son: Part 2
/By Geoff Evans
This article continues the story of sailing Sea Wolf NZL from Australia to NZ in March and April 2022.
On the 28 March, with preparations complete, we caught the ebb tide down the river Tamar. With thoughts on Russia’s war in Ukraine passed an Australian submarine docking. We departed Tasmania with light easterlies in what promised to be an easy overnight sail halfway across the Bass Strait to Winter Cove in Deal Island. No moon in total darkness, our approach was somewhat aided by the phosphorescence lighting up coast. Daylight revealed good shelter in a deep high sided inlet with subsiding swell breaking at the head of the bay. Gareth’s drone shot gives a clearer impression.
After a big breakfast, and a couple of meals cooked to freeze down for the trip, we motored away to explore the wonderful rock formations and colours of the coast around to Garden Cove and then set off from there to cross the remainder of the Bass Strait heading for Eden, the first available shelter, and one of the few places we could legally exit Australia. We had some champagne sailing, goose-winging downwind.
At night we sighted the loom of lights from the numerous oil production platforms. At one stage we confused the dazzling rise of Venus for a navigation light!
However, the weather outlook was becoming increasingly alarming with a major storm forecast to develop just off the New South Wales coast near Eden. So, with yet another pitch-dark landfall, we chose to anchor with plenty of chain out close under the lee of East Boyd Bay; and it was there that we were storm bound for 3 days! On the fourth day we plucked up courage to leave, so with 2 reefs in the main and a snippet of jib we set off in strong easterlies heading north in mountainous swells. Conditions and mood rapidly improved the next morning, and with conditions so clear what we had convinced ourselves were spouting whales later emerged as the Port Kembla steel works! But later we had the most amazing dolphin encounter and then motor sailed past Botany Bay concluding with yet another dark landfall anchored in Rose Bay Sydney harbour at 1am in the morning.
Sydney was amazing, and full of contrasts. We berthed for 6 days in the CYCA marina in Rushcutters Bay and felt obliged to brush up and sharpen appearances in an attempt to fit in with this upmarket establishment.
We had much to accomplish in our days here preparing for the Tasman crossing; provisioning, coping with masses of washing, upgrading the plumbing in the heads (this was Gareth’s nadir!), installing a new water tank, tanking up, checking the rigging, spending time with family and friends and welcoming a new crew member, Howard. And for the majority of our stay the weather was truly awful, with floods of biblical proportions!
So, my brother Howard, who lives in Sydney, joined the Sea Wolf NZL crew as Evans 3. Evans 1 remained #1 son Gareth, owner – master - skipper. Your humble scribe was Evans 2, galley and general hand and elder, and brother Howard became Evans 3; a highly skilled and experienced yachtsman with a host of much needed and complementary skills. And Howard’s home at Umina Beach provided much needed R&R, cooking and laundry facilities.
Over this time, we were regularly checking PredictWind Offshore to determine the next suitable weather window we could safely cross the Tasman and decided to set off on Sunday 10 April. So, in advance we arranged all the paperwork and for the Australian Border Force people to come down to give us clearance. Pleasant people, no problems. After tanking up we motored out sightseeing Sydney harbour, then out through the heads by midday. The forecast breeze took ages to fill in so there was lots of motor sailing, and our first real whale sightings of the trip.
Meanwhile back in NZ, Emily our youngest daughter gave birth to our third grandchild, Celeste.
Closer to hand strong winds headwinds of SE 30 knots had set in meant that we had to put in a second reef. Conditions were already uncomfortable and predicted to worsen, with storm force conditions of over 50 knots forecast for our approach to the NZ. So, there were moments of gloom and impending doom until we reasoned that we could head back to Lord Howe Island 120 miles downwind.
Spirits lifted as we bore away to the NW to gain shelter. We tacked downwind to delay our landfall to daylight the next day, 14 April. The sight of Ball’s Pyramid with the mountains of Lord Howe Island behind was truly spectacular.
Maritime radio put us in contact with Heath, the local policeman, who gave us good pilotage advice for our approach through the reef into the lagoon and then onto the only mooring that would suit our draft. What a relief!
After a visit from the biosecurity people, we took stock of our situation. There was one other boat in port, a Riviera 60 motorboat with its new kiwi owner and delivery crew aboard. They had already been sheltering in the lagoon for 10 days, enroute from Brisbane to Opua. The moorings were safe but far from comfortable, with a 2.5 nmi fetch across the lagoon allowing for quite a chop in the 25-30 knot south easters that continued to blow, and with the swell from the west washing over the reef at high tide! Nevertheless, we were safe and could plan our next moves.
But, getting ashore was a challenge as Gareth’s tender, a 2.4M Takacat inflatable with its open bow meant for very wet rides! Communications were also challenging, with no phone or data coverage available and the hugely overpriced Wi-Fi we were able to buy at the one live spot was limiting. However, we were able to get in contact with our loved ones, buy provisions, ate ashore, quaffed gin, cucumber and lime cocktails aptly named Heading East as well as getting in some stunning walks in the hills. Lord Howe is an amazing place, with just over 300 residents, daily flight to NSW and tourists limited to 400 at any one time.
We closely monitored the weather and decided to head off towards NZ on the 18 April and had to motor sail for a couple of days before we could get into the stiff southerlies that enabled us to romp along at fetch the Northland coast midday on the 23 April.
Getting into the lee and thus sheltered waters meant for some delightful and peaceful sailing down to Opua the next morning where we had to clear customs, etc. (pic) And that was not so easy; the maritime border still requires MIQ, and we still had one more day of isolation, so we were obliged to stay aboard; again, not so easy because the MPI people had taken all our meat, veges and fruit, so we had to arrange for some groceries to be delivered from the local store! As it was still going to take some days to get Sea Wolf through customs, we left her in Opua marina and Jane picked us up in the car for the drive home to Devonport.
So, it was six weeks away sailing from Port Lincoln, South Australia to Opua, Bay of Islands. We’ve enjoyed some very challenging sailing, lovely family times, and heaps of fun. Thanks to Gareth and Howard for being great ship mates and to Jane and the family for their forbearance, allowing me to get away. But hey, it’s great to be back home!
Geoff Evans 1/5/22